annatravelslux

Exploring human behavior, travel, conscience and our common threads

  • On Coming Home

    What’s the worst part about travel? Delayed flights or hotel miscommunications? Nope. Grueling hours on a cold train? Being afraid of the water that comes out of the tap? Diarrhea for days? No, no, and no. It’s simple: the worst part of travel is coming home when all the fun has ended. Sure, there may be some measured level of anticipation about getting back to the people you love or some of the routine comforts of the place where you live, but for those of us afflicted {or blessed} with terminal wanderlust, coming home just plain sucks. For me, the longer I am away on my travels, the further into this alternate universe I am pulled. I forget about the anxieties of daily life in the USA. Whether I’m volunteering at a wildlife rescue organization with Spartan living conditions and shared space with 40+ other people, or I’m reveling in a suite at a five star resort on the beach in Indonesia, I forget, for a time, about the place I came from. Dealing with hexed travel or happily soaking in the lifeblood of a new city is all equally wonderful and transformative for me. And I do not miss it, I do not want to return it – it: that “real” world which, after months of other-continental exploration, feels mundane and draining.

    The awful realization that my trip is almost over usually hits about a week before my flight back. The best comparison I can make (and it’s not all that great), is that feeling you get when you are nearing the end of a book you can’t put down. You’ve become so involved in this other world of words that finishing up is somewhat panic-inducing. Sure, you want to know how it all ends up, but that means it’s over, and then what? Emptiness. Nothingness. Loss. The cessation of your engrossing, joyous escape. Yes, I’m being hyperbolic, but to necessarily illustrate the point with a feeling we all know. You just don’t want it to be done. Neither do I.

    I must applaud myself though, in that I do not let these “trip over!” blues get me down until the end is really nigh. Yes, I may have an evening or two of restless anxiety and heart palpitations (2014 trip). Or I may have an emotional release at the spa (2015 trip, and I’m so apologetic to the poor woman who soothed me through my tears during the pedicure and the facial, and to my cousin who saw me through the rest of the day). Other than these little hiccups, I’m in the zone, and there is a big fat line drawn between where I am and where that plane will take me. I do not let work emails frazzle me, and though I make sure the hotels I choose have WiFi, I am still unplugged – from stress, from frivolous little shit that matters so much day to day, but not at all when I’m away.

    I revere the new perspective, the new possibilities unplugging through travel gives me. In so many ways, being away and hitting the reset button on life is essential. I am still in the same world when I’m cruising around Indonesia on a motorbike, or traversing Bangkok on the BTS, or sitting in a Starbuck’s in Sonoma County writing this blog. How I live my life when I’m away in Asia offers me so many lessons for my life in California. Of course so much is different, but it’s also quite the same. “Same Same but Different,” just like they say. It feels like another world, but it’s not, and everywhere I go, there I am anyway. I come back refreshed, a somewhat improved version of myself. I am tan, usually thinner, talking a little bizarrely {you get accustomed to dropping the prepositions after a while}, and for the first five minutes totally befuddled driving my car. Part of my profession is driving people on wine tours, so driving is practically second nature. I adore that which serves to challenge such a basic part of my everyday. I love being reminded that “my normal” is so flimsy, so contingent on place and circumstance; that it can be shaken up and at least temporarily lost by a few months elsewhere. I love meeting ex-pats who have no idea who Katy Perry is and associate North West only with a direction, no people. Maybe these travels, getting longer every year, are baby steps to the big unplug.

    But that’s a different animal, isn’t it? Putting down roots for the long haul in some other country is different than traveling for long periods of time. I am so fortunate to be able to travel as much as I do. I live a life and am involved in a profession that is very conducive to my wanderlust. For this, this life at home which I was just bashing and panicking about returning to, I am blessed and grateful. Without this life, I would have no point of reference for the amazing parts of the globe I visit, the new cultures I encounter, the delicious foods I get to eat, the beautiful people I meet and come to love. I couldn’t savor any of it the same way if I didn’t come from this set of random circumstances that led to me being me, and I struggle to describe how much I truly savor it. But even with my gratitude, me being me and all, the worst part of travel is still coming home. Love-hate, the grass is always greener, can’t appreciate the light without the dark – yes, all the tropes apply, and I know it. Doesn’t change coming home sucking. The bright spots? Well-Travel by planeknown medicine for all of those suffering post-holiday depression is the obvious: planning the next one. And in my lucky case, planning the next ones of others’ as well.

  • Luxury or Economy Part Deux: Chiang Mai
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    A broad perspective on where in the world you find Chiang Mai

    First let me say how very fortunate I am to be doing something that I love. The hotel bug bit me over ten years ago, and the travel bug wasn’t too far behind. One of my favorite things to do when traveling is check out gorgeous hotels across the world, the ones with unique character, and stories to tell, the hotels that evoke a sense of place. Chiang Mai is a whole city that oozes just this evocative character, the entire place sensually enlivened with an easygoing spirit and quiet charm you don’t often find. The north of Thailand is so distinct from Bangkok or the beach areas to the south. The hustle and bustle of the big city is not present, despite Chiang Mai being the second largest city in the country. In Luxury or Economy “Part One” I visited and shared some thoughts about hotels in Siem Reap, Cambodia. During my time in Chiang Mai, I had the opportunity to do the same. I cannot pick a favorite (or at least I can’t say!), so let’s take a peek at a few of the best.


    Four Seasons Resort Chiang Mai

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    A beautiful welcome, Four Seasons Chiang Mai lobby

    If your desires lead you to nature, being truly removed from the city life and to the feel of a posh reserve, head for the Four Seasons Resort Chiang Mai. This resort is actually in Mae Rim, about a 30-45 minute drive outside of the city. The 2 restaurants and 98 rooms are situated on 32 acres, and you can choose from a number of room options. Pavilion rooms offer garden or rice field views (yes, there are rice fields on the property, tended to by the resort’s gardening staff of 50 people, and 7 water buffalo), and residences offer multi-room options for friends or families traveling together. But the true jewels are the newer pool villas, built five years ago.

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    Pool Villa at Four Seasons Chiang Mai
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    View from the bed in a Pool Villa at Four Seasons Chiang Mai

    The open floor plan in these villas is airy and sexy, especially the stunning view from the bed through floor-to-ceiling glass doors out to your private plunge pool. A private gazebo off the pool is the perfect place to enjoy breakfast with a view, a massage, or morning yoga. If you dare to tear yourself away from your gorgeous villa, the resort can facilitate a number of activities. Thai cooking classes are offered Monday-Saturday in the expansive cooking demonstration kitchen (you can also do a nine course dinner at the chef’s table here in the evenings). Elephant camps, hiking excursions and more “extreme” activities like zip lining and atv riding can also be arranged. If you want to get away from it all in a Northern Thai natural paradise, the Four Seasons is where you want to be. Room rates from approximately $750/nt.

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    Main Swimming pool with rice field view at Four Seasons Chiang Mai

    Dhara Dhevi

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    Main building, Dhara Dhevi, Chiang Mai

    If art and culture resonate with you most, then get yourself over to the Dhara Dhevi. Truly, when I arrived on property I thought my song-taew driver had made a mistake; it looked like we were at a temple, not a hotel. “Dhara Dhevi” means “beautiful princess” and this resort could not be more aptly named. The owner is a Thai artist and art collector, which is immediately evident in the delicate care for every aspect of the property, from the finest details in the jaw-dropping wood carvings at the Dheva Spa {aside: spa wellness retreats and Ayurvedic treatments are on offer and I could not imagine a more serene, tranquil and otherworldly locale for such a purpose}, to the architecture of the numerous buildings. He wanted to reflect the history of Chiang Mai and the former Lanna Kingdom, so all of the buildings were constructed with a keen eye for the traditional style of the north. Even the wing of Colonial Suites reflects the impact of the British colonizers of Myanmar, part of which used to overlap the Lanna Kingdom. This resort is in the city (about a 15 minute ride to the airport or Old City) but if you want to forget that, it’s easy to do. All Deluxe Villas are two stories and have either a hot tub, plunge pool, or private full pool. Oh, and stunning views of the rice fields on the property. These rice fields are put to good use at Dhara Dhevi. If guests are interested, they can learn about rice agriculture by participating in planting and harvesting the two large fields. The resort then uses that rice to offer to the local monks at morning alms giving (another chance to participate in this if you don’t mind getting up early – a perfect jet lag activity). The owner and staff are passionately committed to their community. Older ladies from the neighborhood come to the resort every day to teach traditional crafts and a couple of nights a week a mini “market” is held on the grounds. Staffed and supplied by neighborhood cooks, guests can try authentic local foods for free.

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    Interactive Craft Village at Dhara Dhevi

    The activity options are packed here, with meditation, yoga, free bike rentals, crafts and ceremonies: you will not suffer a lack of things to do. Or if you just want to hang by one of the resort’s two luxurious pools, you can do that, too.

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    One of Dhara Dhevi’s two resort swimming pools

    The attentive staff (with a ratio of 4 staff members per room) is there to take care of you at every step, especially your personal butler. Even though this is a larger resort in terms of the number of rooms at 123, it feels undeniably like a distinguished boutique property. A former Mandarin Oriental, now independent, the Dhara Dhevi distinguishes itself with not only the uniqueness of the design and detail, but with their commitment to service and community and culture. Room rates from approximately $500/nt.

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    Ayurvedic treats at the Dheva Spa
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    Unique sculpture around the grounds at Dhara Dhevi
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    View of rice fields from 2nd story of Deluxe Villa, Dhara Dhevi
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    Local honey at breakfast buffet, Dhara Dhevi, Chiang Mai

    Baan Huen Phen

    Newly opened Baan Huen Phen
    Newly opened Baan Huen Phen

    “What about the “economy” part of this post?” you may be asking yourself. Thanks for your patience, and be assured, it’s well worth it. Baan Huen Phen is a recently opened boutique inn in the heart of Chiang Mai’s “Old City.” Owned and operated by the proprietors of favorite local restaurant (and namesake) Huen Phen, this little spot is a delightful charm at a reasonable price in a prime location. The exteriors are reminiscent of the Lanna style one sees throughout the north of Thailand, but the room interiors are sleek, modern and clean. Nothing gaudy here, and the standard and superior room types are both quite spacious. A small but inviting pool offers a respite from the strong South East Asian sun, and the walled in nature of the property leaves you with tranquility and quiet one cannot normally find in a bustling city center. The staff here is warm and friendly, and being hooked up with one of the best restaurants in town is never a bad thing (the coffee is to die for, as is the spicy chicken in northern Thai style!). Room rates from approximately $95/nt.

    Tranquil pool area at Baan Huen Phen
    Tranquil pool area at Baan Huen Phen

    There are a number of lovely guest houses and even more moderately priced accommodations throughout Thailand’s second largest city. These were a few of the very best I visited. Do yourself a favor and visit this amazing place. Need a travel professional to help plan your trip? Always happy to help. Email me at anna@elitetravelinternational.com.

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    Sometimes a situation can feel like a hex is upon it no matter what you do. Travel is no exception. This trip, at times, has felt absolutely cursed. Two and a half months abroad and how many things could go wrong? Well, missing your flight to Asia is a brilliant start. Someone losing a wallet with all money and credit cards is pretty high up there too. Getting thrown off the good train car into steerage for a six hour journey isn’t so fun. How about your guide not showing up for your full day tour of Nusa Penida when it is your last day there to do such an excursion? Knocking over a parked motorbike the first time you’re riding a scooter in Bali and breaking your only decent pair of sandals doing so? Shitting ten times in one day despite taking copious amounts of immodium? What about your friend missing her flight to Asia when she’s supposed to meet you near the end of the trip? Yes, this trip has been chalk full of challenges. Yet, here we still are, soaking it all in, taking it in stride. No tears since SFO over a month ago.

    A cursed trip still has many blessings to offer, if you don’t get caught up in the negative. And bad things are bound to happen, even if they seem to be plaguing us more than our fair share. Thank God there is abundant cheap beer to help.

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    I actually don’t have many Buddha-like words of wisdom about this, because I am still in the midst of it all. My friend is arriving two days late to Bali. Everything is more expensive here than I remember from three years ago, the beaches near Seminyak and Legian are not all that nice, and I can’t get wifi in my villa at the resort. But I have perspective. I am in Bali, with beautiful and friendly people and a gorgeous culture. Even if it is more expensive than I remember, it is a hell of a lot cheaper than if I were at home in the US. The crappiest beach here still has warm water, little warungs where I can order a fresh fish for lunch, and ladies who want to massage my feet while I sit on my day bed. My friend will get here eventually and soon she will forget about the harrowing mess of flights it took to arrive, just as I have done.

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    For every absolute shit thing that has happened, ten amazing experiences have occurred, if not more. I’ve made amazing friends, worked with elephants and bears and gibbons, eaten ridiculously good food, toured and stayed at gorgeous properties, swam in idyllic oceans and felt soft white sand between my toes. My tan is enviable and all the intestinal problems and hard volunteering work have helped me drop some pounds. So really, REALLY, is there anything at all to complain about?

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  • Hallelujah: Christmas Tunes in Thailand

    It’s odd to come to a Buddhist country and find yourself inundated with fake Christmas trees, twinkling blue lights and holiday carols being blared at markets and shops everywhere. But it’s also kind of endearing. Christmas is a reason to celebrate. We like to decorate and eat and share gifts with our loved ones. Moreover, it is cause for shopping and what Thai could resist all of that? It’s a holiday made for this culture. My host in Chiang Mai could not stop going on about the excitement over fruitcakes, and I’m pretty sure the gal singing Hallelujah at the shopping center across from my hotel is having a great time of it.

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    Why is it so weird for Western travelers to see this tradition adapted and adopted then? I think it stems from the search for the Other. We travel across the globe and see sights we might find in our hometown. This could be disconcerting, if not disappointing. But in my opinion, that’s a bit of misguided thinking. It’s a denial of the global exchange of ideas and values that take place millions of times every day. While one might look at this as a tainting or degrading of the culture, this completely misses the reality that cultures are fluid, always changing, far from static. The yearning for a time capsule of culture is going to be more and more of a letdown the further we seek a type of “pure” authenticity that doesn’t exist.

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    So sing on with those Christmas tunes, and keep displaying those lit up snowmen and trees. Like it or not, that is part of the truth of the people living here. And who doesn’t love a good twist, twists we’d never be able to come up with, on a holiday nobody owns?

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  • Day Hikes and Night Food in Chiang Mai

    South East Asia is famed for so much, and chiefly, its food culture. I’ve been to Thailand many times, but this is my first trip to the north, in Chiang Mai. It is so distinct from its southern counterpart, Bangkok. The pace of life is slower and everything is more spread out, less densely packed (except, perhaps, for the crowded night markets). What does one do in the north of Thailand? Why, you trek and you eat.

    Our day of arrival was a Saturday, which is fortunate because the Saturday Night Street Market is a treasure trove of trinkets, locally crafted clothes and textiles, and most importantly, street food. Our experience might accurately be described as an eating frenzy. So many carts and so little room in the stomach! What a terrible quandary. But Brandon and I handled this like the eating experts we are, expanding our stomachs close to the breaking point. From savory shumai dumplings, to fried banana flowers, to every assortment of meats on sticks you could imagine, we indulged our taste buds to their limits. Chiang Mai is famous for its sausage (Sai ua) and we tried a number of different ones, from sour fermented pork sausage, to ‘milk sausage.’ All were delicious. And chatting with the lovely street chefs was almost as much a highlight as the cuisine itself.

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    But all those calories demand some kind of counter balance. Rather than settling in my fat cells and making them grow, a good, hard, long day of trekking seemed to be the answer. Brandon and I have been waiting for the chance to work up a sweat and get into the real outdoors, so we booked a day trip with a local tour agency (Panda Tours). We opted for their “less touristy” offering, and I cannot stress enough how much they delivered on this description. A mixed group of eleven of us were shuttled in a comfortable van past Mae Rim to the Ban Pa Poo Jom area in the hills north of the city. Perhaps Panda Tours could be more diligent in describing the extent to which this trek is strenuous. Brandon and I were well prepared, as we both do a lot of hiking at home, but other people in our group did not fair quite so well. Two men were feeling sick with stomach problems and about half the group was wearing basic sneakers with no tread. Within 20 minutes 3 or 4 people had already fallen on the steep, narrow, and densely forested trails. Thank God they covered everyone with insurance. But hey, this is what we signed up for – a more authentic, local experience!

    IMG_0424.JPGThe trek lasted five hours in total and including van travel time the day lasted about 7.5 hours. We stopped at a refreshing waterfall for a dip and visited a Hmong and a Lahu village. Most surprising was seeing a church at the incredibly remote Lahu village. I guessed these groups would be Buddhist or practice animism, but our guide explained (and I cannot say enough good things about our guide, Sarawat) that they had been contacted by Christian missionaries before fleeing for Thailand during the civil war in Burma/Myanmar. I love to be surprised!

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    After a long day of tough trekking, what do you think we were ready for when we got back to the city? You guessed it: the even bigger Sunday Night Market, which engulfs two major streets in the center of the Old City, and all the food it had on offer. Highlights: perfectly prepared pork belly, bacon wrapped mushrooms, quail eggs, and bee egg omelette. Yum! Maybe another hike is in order. What a dangerous cycle we seem to be in.

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  • Some things have changed in Siem Reap since I visited four years ago. Namely, the density of hotels and tourists within the city. For a small city with a population of about 200,000, Siem Reap now has over 400 hotels and welcomes over 4 million visitors every year. Jam-packed Pub Street can be totally obnoxious and touristy, but do know that there are plenty of other options where you can stay and eat and spend your time on a very worthwhile trip to this ancient city.

    Of course, the standard of luxury in Siem Reap is the Le Meridien, which is located a stone’s throw from the entrance to the Angkor Archaeological Park. But if you are a traveler who prefers a more boutique experience to a larger brand, you should be excited about the soon-to-open Lyn Naya Urban River Resort. This small resort is slated to open the first of the year, and offers 40 luxury rooms and suites beginning at $150/night USD. Rooms all have private patios with either a river or a resort view. With a swanky on-site spa and modern, open concept restaurant, Palate, Lyn Naya promises to deliver a boutique, luxury experience while still situated just near the heart of downtown Siem Reap, about a 10 minute walk to the action in town.

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    Superior room at Lyn Naya, Siem Reap

     

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    Palate Restaurant at Lyn Naya, Siem Reap

     

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    Reception lounge at Lyn Naya, Siem Reap

    Or, a more established yet still small brand luxury hotel in Siem Reap is the Victoria Angkor Resort & Spa. This is a bigger hotel with about 130 rooms and it is located just near the Royal Residence, looking out over the Royal Gardens. They have two beautiful restaurants (one dedicated strictly to French cuisine), a spa, a kids recreation area (with babysitting!), and a gorgeous pool. In addition, they offer hands on cooking courses with their chef, as well as silk weaving demonstrations with local artisans. And it is impossible to miss the small crocodiles living in the central atrium’s lagoon. If you’re the daring type, you can participate in feeding them on Fridays.

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    Crocodiles at the Victoria Angkor, Siem Reap

     

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    Pool area at Victoria Angkor, Siem Reap

     

    Finally, one of my most rewarding visits of the day came from my meeting with Chanthou Choun, the owner of Horizons Cambodia, a boutique lodge on the east side of the Siem Reap River. This is lodging on the opposite end of the spectrum from Le Meridien or Victoria Angkor. Chanthou caters to volunteers working for NGOs, or at the local children’s hospital, offering those giving their time special room rates. He is a young Cambodian man who worked at the lodge for many years with his wife before the Australian owners decided to move back home. They sold the hotel and all of its fixtures and furnishings to Chanthou, and while I don’t know the previous owners, I do know that they’d have to be proud of what he is doing there. Rooms are small but functional and clean, with modern flat screen TVs, and strong wifi throughout the whole property. Chanthou and his wife pride themselves on the service they offer to their guests and also work as tour organizers in the area. Check out their company, Experience Siem Reap. Rates at Horizons Cambodia begin at $18/night USD (and they do have more spacious rooms with balconies at a slightly higher price point, too), so if you are on a budget and want clean accommodations in a good location, this is the right place for you.

    In short, even though Siem Reap may be getting overrun with tourists, the right lodging can afford you just the break from the crowds that you will be seeking.

     

     

  • Spiders, Temples, and the Back of the Train

    The beginning of this trip has me thinking I have done the travel in my life out of order – luxury first and now on a more economical scale. Being gone for two+ months means trying to maximize the amenities and experiences of hotels and transport without breaking the bank. We are getting there!

    There isn’t a better place I can think of to stretch your dollar than Cambodia. It is a gorgeous country with some of the most genuinely kind and friendly people I’ve ever met, and a big draw in the UNESCO World Heritage Site of the Angkor Temple Complex. Getting here from Thailand I would normally fly, but we are watching the budget, right? And I had never traveled across Asia by train, so I conjured up some romantic visions in my mind a la Paul Theroux and thought we would do it (and we did). The journey took about six hours, cost about $1.40, and only reduced my lifespan by about three or four years. Train travel as a younger white woman with a backpack (they didn’t care that I have a carry on roller luggage, too) apparently means you sit in the back of the bus. Despite being there early and getting nice, comfy seats, all young, white people were moved to a much older and less desirable car before we departed the station. My perspective on discrimination has been expanded. Here is our classy ride. IMG_0145.JPG

    But we made it, and we made it through the totally chaotic border crossing without incident. We made it through the free tourist shuttle to the “official” bus station (only tourists there, but we got swift transportation arranged), and after another 2.5 hours in a taxi (aka an old Toyota Camry) with a few friends we made on the train, Brandon and I arrived in Siem Reap. After much needed showers, we headed out for equally necessary beers and food. Next thing you know we are eating crickets and spider legs! All the travel struggle was worth it. IMG_0146.JPG

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    Our hotel in Siem Reap is just fine. Nice pool, comfortable beds, and a shower with hot water. The tour yesterday of the Angkor temples was outstanding thanks to our wonderful guide arranged through Angkor Asia Adventures. Beers here are $.50 and delicious. Today I strolled around town and did site tours of some other boutique hotels and more luxurious properties (the hotel nerd in me cannot be stopped)! Look out for a separate blog about that with some great pics of crocodiles (yes, that’s right) and lush, high thread count sheets. Until then, I’m going to continue my leisurely lunch at Rohatt Cafe, along the Siem Reap River.

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  • Oh more travel woes. I’ll begin by saying, we arrived safely in Bangkok after harrowing airline issues. The king’s birthday celebration ushered us in straight off the BTS line at Siam Station.

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    The utter reverend and adoration the Thai people have for their king is so heartening. It is one of my favorite things about the Thai people. Speaking of dedication to leaders, the atmosphere here seems to have changed a bit with regard to identifying oneself as an American. Before it was a bit of a dicey proposition to do so. Now all I’ve heard when I say “I’m from California” is “Obama!!!! Yes! Love Obama!” If we can’t thank him for a whole lot, at least we can appreciate a better reputation than we had under Bush out in the rest of the world.

    The king’s birthday celebration has led to a city-wide “promotion.” As best I can tell, this promotion equals a lot of guys ushering tourists into tuk tuks for ridiculously low prices for the day. The catch? They’re also trying to push custom tailored suits and klong tours on you. It’s not all bad though. If you navigate the hustle well, a lot of temples are open to the public that are not normally, and the whole mood in the city is joyous as Thais celebrate their beloved king’s special day. And who can refuse a killer deal on a tuk tuk driver for the day?

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    So there is the hustled part. What about bitten? I’m not a huge complainer, but man did I misstep last night when I went down for cocktails on the pier at the Shangri-la without any mosquito repellent. I have long known I am one of the tastiest treats around for my entomological enemies. Bangkok is usually not an area I need to worry too much about this, but sitting by the river at nighttime is a totally different story. I pity the poor lady who does my nightly foot massage tonight.

    The take away:
    1. Don’t buy a suit if you don’t want one, but do take advantage of the great transportation pricing and temple visits for the king’s birthday festivities.
    2. Bug spray required by the river at night. Mosquitoes don’t care if you are at a dive or a 5-star hotel; they’re still hungry. Ps – apologies for the graphic image ahead.

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  • I guess going 30 years never missing a flight is a fairly good track record. I was about due for this. What a confluence of events. California is in the middle of a historic drought and the rains have finally come; on my travel day. Yay? This morning required a solid four hours to reach SFO from the north bay town that we live in. This route is normally 90 minutes. Much to my consternation, the arrival time the gps suggested continually got later and later even though we were slogging forward slowly but surely through the gray and wet web of cars jamming the roadways. The gate was due to close at 12:50pm for our 1:50pm flight. We threw in hope’s towel finally at 12:20, after numerous calls to the airline and our booking agency, and an utter lack of empathy from the traffic and weather gods. We got another flight, and our pocket books are a bit lighter. Who knew the adventures would start so soon?

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    As I write these words, I am looking on the bright side of all this (though believe me, that was not my attitude earlier). A few snarky (I vie to reach my snark idol’s level someday), and a few genuine takeaways, which I will let you the readers be the judge of what should be categorized where.

    1. We are now incredibly early and ahead of schedule for our newly booked midnight flight. We shall be the first people at the check in counter when it opens (yes, it is in our line of sight).
    2. The new flight is on an airline I much prefer to the flight we missed.
    3. The red eye is a far superior departure when flying to Asia. Meal, beer, sleeping aid, and ten hours later, Hello Taipei!
    4. Newly gained empathy for those who have ever felt the utter despair of sitting in a car helpless while the wheels of the travel universe spin right on without you.
    5. Firsthand knowledge of the beautiful safety net that trip insurance can be. HOW I WISH I HAD PURCHASED IT THIS TIME! I recommend it to people on almost a daily basis and now I have an excellent personal anecdote to include.

    As I said to my travel companion, Brandon, hopefully this will be the purging of all bad travel juju here at the very beginning of our journey. Hiccups always happen, but this was a hell of a first jolt. Here’s to two months of a better adventure than its beginning.

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  • Late Fall: The Best Time to Visit Sonoma Wine Country

    For years I have been telling my favorite Farmhouse Inn and Silver Service guests that the “secret” best time to visit wine country is in mid to late November. Why is this the case? First, the crowds have gone home. The busy  (aka crazy) harvest season is behind us after the Veteran’s Day holiday and that means better deals on lodging and other tourist services. It also means more one on one, intimate experiences at all of the great local wineries. Wine educators and winemakers are freed up to spend more time with you, the guests, when there aren’t truckloads of grapes coming in and busloads of tour groups to boot.

    Vineyard views looking north at Christopher Creek Winery in Healdsburg, CA
    Vineyard views looking north at Christopher Creek Winery in Healdsburg, CA

    Second (and in some circles, most importantly), COLOR COLOR COLOR! The vines are on fire with rich red and orange hues this time of year. The color is better in November than it is in October. Tree-lined driveways leading up to the wineries are imbued with warmly toned, red and yellow and orange leaves falling to the ground as you approach. It’s hard to imagine a better way to spend a mild, late fall day, than sipping on a newly discovered Pinot Noir or Zinfandel, all the while drinking up views of rolling hills sewn with orange and red vines.

    And this leads to the third reason that November is the best time to visit – the weather. Hear me out on this. No, it’s not shorts and sandals time (unless perhaps, you’re from Minnesota, in which case, it seems all of these rules are out the window). However, our true rainy season has not yet arrived, and most days the weather is cool, clear and crisp. The perfect time to put on your new skinny jeans and ankle boots and a favorite sweater. In some ways, it is actually a much better climate for wine tasting. Who wants to sip on a big red on a scorching summer day? A mild, late fall afternoon in the low 60s is far superior for that. Yes, there is always a chance that it could rain this time of year, but even if it does, cozying up by the fireplace at Gary Farrell or Fog Crest with a tasty glass of Pinot is a pretty fine way to bide your time.

    Fall leaves welcoming guests into Lambert Bridge Winery
    Fall leaves welcoming guests into Lambert Bridge Winery

    If you are in doubt about when to come to wine country, or how to spend your time while you are here, consult a dedicated travel professional (now you have one – me!) to help navigate the ins and outs.

    Now you know my opinion, that late fall is the best time to experience wine country. What about you? What is your favorite time of year to visit wine country and why?